If they could book a place nearby the Victoria Station, they would take the train direct to Canterbury and didn't need to spend extra time and money to take the tube. However, it's very worthy to stay in Athena Palace Hotel even it's farther. 如果住在維多利亞車站旁,就可以不用多花搭地鐵的時間及金錢直接搭火車到坎特伯里去,不過,住在遠一點的Athena Palace Hotel卻是非常值得。
London Victoria to Canterbury East(維多利亞車站到坎特伯里東站) 10:33-11:59 10:49 Bromley South 11:13 Rochester 11:17 Chatham 11:20 Gillingham(Kent) 11:25 Rainham Kent 11:32 Sittingbourne 11:46 Faversham 11:51 Selling [注意!!] 從倫敦維多利亞車站開往坎特伯里東站的列車,在Faversham一樣會車身分離為兩班,一班往北邊的Margate前進,一班往會經過坎特伯里的多佛(Dover)前進。列車十分長,印象中有十幾個車廂,車上不僅會有廣播,車廂裡還有電子板會隨時公告通知,車掌驗票時也會一一與旅客確認,所以不用擔心。
Exiting the check-in counter, the Canterbury East Station was unexpected small. The street map in the city centre also mainly marked the Canterbury West Station. It let Pigen and Piching doubt that the East Station was old one and would be possible to be abolished in the future. Thus, when they were returning to the East Station, they were lost without any map on hand. Unfortunately, they were not lucky as usual, they walked further and further. Finally, Pigen suggested them to track back the road they had walked. Luckily, they went back to the city centre and got the right way back to the East Station. 走出驗票口,沒想到坎特伯里東站竟然十分的小,而市區裡的地圖指示(按滑鼠右鍵另存下載)也都以標誌坎特伯里西站為主,不禁讓P根與P青懷疑東站是否為舊站,而且有廢除的可能性。也因此在回車站路上,兩豬竟然迷路了, 由於P青老樣子的沒有事先準備地圖及旅遊資訊,這次很不幸地走錯路後,便越走越遠、越走越偏僻去。最後是沿著原路反方向走才再度回到市中心找到回東站的路。
Canterbury is one of hot spots in Kent in the South East of England. It also has acity wall founded in Roman times which surrounding the half of city centre. As other commercial cities, Canterbury has many places for shopping. So once they reached the shopping street, Piching went to Superdrug to buy a bottle of cough syrup to avoid others' concern. 坎特伯里也是英格蘭東南部肯特郡的熱門觀光景點之一,同樣有一段羅馬時期建的城牆(City Wall),圍繞市中心的一半,市區如其它觀光城市一樣,也少不了購物中心,所以沿路咳不停的P青一到市中心,看到Superdrug馬上進去買咳嗽糖漿,避免旁人的異樣眼光。
Canterbury is the first place for Roman Catholicism in the UK. Thomas Becket's murder at Canterbury Cathedral in 1170 led to the cathedral becoming a place of pilgrimage for Christians worldwide. 因羅門天主教會最早在這個地方落腳,加上忠於教會的主教托馬斯·貝克特在祭壇上被殺,更讓坎特伯里大教堂成為進香團的最後朝聖處。
The famous "The Canterbury Tales" by Geoffrey Chaucer was using pilgrims' storytelling from Southwark to Canterbury to visit Canterbury Cathedral to develop the narrative.The form of story is similar to The Decameron and One Thousand and One Nights.
Originally, Piching planned to visit more places before they went to London for check-in. As previous journal mentioned, Piching's cold got worse and Pigen suggested they went to London for check-in directly and had a nice rest. However, Piching insisted to go to Exeter so they cancelled other schedules except Exeter.
When they arrived at Exeter, they found it was worthy. It was a beautiful and lovely city. Although its wall didn't keep as good as Chester's, walking along the Exeter's wall still surprised Pigen and Piching. 一到艾斯特,發現不虛此行,這裡真是個美麗又可愛的地方,四處充斥著紅色建築及城牆。雖然不似契斯特城牆保存完善可讓人在其上行走,艾斯特的城牆遊路線還是讓人驚喜。
(艾斯特四處可見彩繪的牆面,非常賞心悅目。)
(上面大圖是Medieval Exe Bridge 中世紀艾斯橋)
(上面是Exeter Quayside 艾斯特碼頭,鵝比其它城市看到的都更肥美)
[關於住宿]
由於想要到英格蘭東南部走走,所以從西南部到東南部的最好停留點就是倫敦,之前去過倫敦多次,所以還是透過TravelStay.com訂房,缺點是要額外收手續費3.5鎊,但選擇性多元,有些對學生還有學生價。原本想訂之前在維多利亞車站(Victoria Station)附近的Holly and Ivy House Hotel,其實整排房子外面掛不同名,但卻已經整合為同一家。空間小巧、乾淨、舒適、方便,一棟房子的房間數也不多,廁所衛浴設備都很新穎、寬敞,進出不用經過櫃臺,使用自由度很高,雙人房38鎊又含大陸式早餐。可惜已經早早額滿,所以這次改找非Zone1的旅舍,結果找到了位於Zone3的Turnpike Lane的兩顆星Athena Palace Hotel,雙人套房(兩張單人床)39.40鎊含早餐,加上手續費3.5鎊共42.90鎊。入住後發現,旅館十分大,如果重新裝潢、整理,多幾顆星是跑不掉的。房間十分大,裡面擺有一張不小的單人床及大雙人床,還有衣櫃、電視、冰箱、流理台、浴室廁所(根本就是一個小家庭套房了),在倫敦地區,很難有這樣大又便宜的空間吧!
Piching only remembered R's Hong Kong boyfriend, A said that the remotest corners of the UK must be visited. Thus, Piching planned to reach there by train with Pigen. It's too difficult to reach the remotest corners of the UK on foot. However, it happened on Marilyn and Philip Slater. They spent 12 months to plan it and used 88 days walking from Land's End to John o'Groats!!! It's very impressive!!! By train, it's impossible to reach the remotest corners of the UK. For the UK, the remotest corners of the UK are Land's End and Isle of Skye. For the former one, the train only can drive you to Penzance in the end of South West England Lines. The direct distance between Penzance and Land's End is more than 13km. For Isle of Skye, the train will reach to Mallaig and transfer to a ferry to Isle of Skye. It's weird for the general, the concept of the remotest corners of a place should be the furthest spot people can reach like Shetland Islands in the North and Isles of Scilly in the South. P青只記得多年前,樓友R的香港男友A說英國的天涯海角一定要去的,所以P青打算這次英國旅遊一定要與P根坐火車遊遍天涯 海角(「走」遍天涯海角太困難,不過倒是有人花了一年計畫,然後用88天從地角(Land's End)走到John o’Groats 喔!詳見瑪莉琳及菲力普‧史雷特的網站), 不過坐火車卻無法實際到達天涯海角,僅能坐到英格蘭西南角終點站的朋占斯,距離地角(蘭茲角)的直線距離至少還有13公里左右;而天涯指的就是天空島(斯開島),坐火車到梅雷格後,還需搭渡輪過海才能到達天涯。如果就一般對於天涯海角的概念,應該會覺得是最遠能抵達的地方,像英國的最北應該是社德蘭群島(Shetland Islands),最南應該是錫利群島(Isles of Scilly)。
Bristol Temple Meads to Plymouth 13:44-15:48 14:17 Taunton
14:29 Tiverton Parkway
14:45 Exeter St Davids
15:04 Newton Abbot
15:17 Totnes
Plymouth to Penzance 15:55-18:07 15:58 Devonport Devon
16:00 Devonport Dockyard
16:02 Keyham
16:04 St Budeaux Ferry Road
16:09 Saltash
16:16 St Germans
16:24 Menheniot
16:30 Liskeard
16:42 Bodmin Parkway
16:47 Lostwithiel
16:54 Par
17:04 St Austell
17:23 Truro
17:36 Redruth
17:42 Camborne
17:49 Hayle
17:53 St Erth
It was the last two days of the UK trip when they travelled to the south west England. Weariness and discomfort of travel let them give up visiting the Land's End's idea. It was not convenient to have a shower in their hostel. The hostel also couldn't provide or rent a hair dryer for tourists. It caused Piching's cold more serious and her endless cough started again. 不過這次玩到英國西南方時已經是接近旅程尾聲,旅遊的疲憊及身體不適一點也都沒有非踏上地角不可的想法。住的地方YHA洗澡既不方便、又沒有吹風機可供租借,結果讓P青感冒狀況急轉直下,咳嗽不斷的情形又開始了。
Pigen and Piching transfered the train from Bristol to Bath Spa. When they were approching to Roman Baths, there were huge crowds of people in the square. Pigen and Piching couldn't image what it will be like in summer holidays!!!
Pigen and Piching didn't like this kind of hot spot very much. Those colourful pigs on the street attracted them much more!!! Those sculptures' idea is from King Bladud's Pigs. King Bladud is a mythical king of the Britons and also the famous King Lear's father.There are 100 decorated life-size pig sculptures displayed in Bath and surrounding villages in this summer. Pigen and Piching were lucky to meet two. You can see others in the website of King's Bladud's Pigs. 不過這樣的熱門景點並不是P根與P青喜愛的,反而是街道上的七彩豬雕像更吸引他們,這些雕像是從有名的布雷德王豬群而來(傳說中,布雷德王是沙翁筆下著名李爾王的父親,關於布雷德王的故事可參見旅行,開門部落格說明),今年夏天將有100隻彩繪豬雕像(同實際豬尺寸)呈列於巴斯及附近城鎮的街道上,P根及P青有幸遇見了兩隻,其餘的可到該網站欣賞。
Pigen and Piching transfered the train from Bristol to Bath Spa. When they were approching to Roman Baths, there were huge crowds of people in the square. Pigen and Piching couldn't image what it will be like in summer holidays!!! One friend didn't like Cardiff very much so Pigen and Piching didn't expect much of Cardiff. However, when they left the rail station and walked toward to River House, the cleanliness of Cardiff gave them a good impress. 有朋友說不是很喜歡卡地夫,所以對這個都會城市沒有抱持任何期待,然而一出車站往旅社方向前進時,城市的整潔卻帶給人不錯的第一好印象。
The hostel locates beside the River Taff and the world famous Millennium Stadium. However, Pigen and Piching were too tired to go out for a night scenes of Cardiff after they had checked in. 旅舍就位於塔夫河及知名的千禧年體育場旁(Millennium Stadium ),不過,一天的疲累令P根與P青入駐旅舍後便無心再出門欣賞卡地夫的夜景。
The next day, they had to take a 5 hours train to Penzance so they had a quick visit of Cardiff. As usual, they didn't enter Cardiff Castle. Perhaps staying in the store of Love Spoon took more time than any other places for shooting. 隔天要撘五小時多的火車到海角去,所以僅匆匆一撇卡地夫的一小角,老樣子地,並沒有進入卡地夫城堡參觀,或許待在愛之匙店的時間反而多過於任何小逗留拍照的地方。
[有關住宿] 從威爾斯到南英格蘭,最好的停靠站就是卡地夫,透過Hostelbookers訂到River House Backpackers的雙人房(當然還是兩張單人床的),一人17.5鎊含早餐,衛浴設備共用,check-in時如果不是現金付款,需額外收1鎊手續費,另外文質彬彬的主人給的是位於閣樓的四人房。房間呈設很簡單卻很,兩張上下舖及兩個橫臥的鐵櫃,根據觀察,上舖離斜屋頂的橫樑過近,並不太適合睡人,所以可能因此當作兩人房出租。整間旅舍感覺很像住家,非常整潔溫馨,衛浴設備也很多間,廚房設備應有盡有,餐廳桌上還有免費蘋果供大家享用。旅舍內也有免費無線上網,旅館主人會給旅客密碼即可上網,不過可能是兩豬住的地方離基地台太遠或主人寫錯密碼,所以在房間裡並無法上網。主人同樣會提供免費的詳盡地圖及介紹。
The reason why Pigen and Piching visited Swansea was because the Fishguard, the last stop in South Wales Lines is too far with only two runs a day. There are two choices to arrive at Swansea by train. One is running through Hereford and Cardiff to Swansea. It will take 3 hours. The other is crossing through the heart of Wales. It will take 4 hours.(There are four runs from Monday to Saturday and merely two runs on Sunday.) Of course, Piching wanted to have a easy way to explore Wales so she chose the later one even it took longer. 選擇到天鵝海(斯溫西), 主要是南威爾斯火車線的最末站魚哨(Fishguard)太遠,一天僅兩班次。到天鵝海有兩條路 線,一是從蘇斯伯利搭乘往赫里福郡方向、經過卡地夫到天鵝海,車程約三小時;一是搭乘班次很少、橫越威爾斯心臟地帶的路線(除星期日兩班以外,其餘一天四 班),車程約四小時。想當然爾,P青想要輕鬆見識一下威爾斯的地理景觀,所以選擇了車程較久的威爾斯心臟路線。
Shrewsbury to Swansea(蘇斯伯利到天鵝海) 14:05-18:06
14:23 Church Stretton 14:36 Craven Arms 14:41 Broome 14:45 Hopton Heath 14:49 Bucknell 14:58 Knighton 15:03 Knucklas 15:11 Llangynllo 15:15 Llanbister Road 15:21 Dolau 15:25 Pen-y-Bont 15:38 Llandrindod 15:47 Builth Road 15:50 Cilmeri 15:55 Garth (Powys) 15:59 Llangammarch 16:07 Llanwrtyd 16:13 Sugar Loaf Halt 16:20 Cynghordy 16:32 Llandovery 16:37 Llanwrda 16:41 Llangadog 16:52 Llandeilo 16:55 Ffairfach 17:02 Llandybie 17:06 Ammanford 17:09 Pantyffynnon 17:15 Pontarddulais 17:19 Llangennech 17:22 Bynea 17:36 Llanelli 17:44 Gowerton Unfortunately, it's a bad decision. On the way to Swansea, there's nothing special for them. Maybe it caused by their loooooong journey...thus they didn't touched by the scenery. 不過,這似乎是個錯誤的決定,沿路並未見到任何如蘇格蘭般讓人驚豔的景色,不知道是否旅行久了而讓人麻木?
Once they arrived in Swansea, they didn't want to stay there longer because it's a centre of heavy industry and doesn't have a sea full of swan. The famous poet Dylan Thomas was born here. Many years ago, Piching had ever watched a performance in memory of Dylan Thomas in Warwick Arts Centre. She couldn't understand performers' each word but she might have a strong version by performers' body language and rhyme in their words. (Perhaps you can look into Dylan Thomas' world and the fascination of Wales in The Edge of Love.) 天鵝海也是個不會讓人久留的城市,畢竟它是重工業中心,而不是充斥天鵝的海邊城市。狄蘭·托馬斯出生於此,多年前,P青曾經在華威藝文中心看過紀念狄蘭·托馬斯的演出,或許無法聽懂表演者的每一個字句,但透過肢體動作及語言音韻卻帶給觀者強力的想像。(或許在最近上映的The Edge of Love可以一窺狄蘭·托馬斯及威爾斯的魅力。)
Shrewsbury is closed to Chester. It only take less than 1 hour by train. It locates in the West Midlands region of England and near the Welsh border. Its architecture style is similar to Chester's. However, it is not such commercial so Pigen and Piching like the town very much. Otherwise, Piching paid 50P to buy a second hand wood shoe for wall decoration made in Jersey. Whatever the value of the wood decoration, Piching likes it is the most important thing. 從契斯特到蘇茲伯利很近,車程不到一小時,是位於英格蘭鄰接威爾斯的城鎮。蘇茲伯利其建築風格與契斯特雷同,充斥著十五世紀的黑白木架構建築,卻不似契斯特般觀光,所以P青及P根很喜歡這裡,P青還在二手市集以50便士買到一只澤西島的木鞋牆飾,不管實際價值如何,她喜愛就好。
If you plan to go to the North Wales, everyone must suggest you to visit Conwy. However, Pigen and Piching's main destination was the last stop, Holyhead in island of Anglesey. If they had time and energy, they would go to visit Conwy when they took the return train. 如果說要去北威爾斯,大家一定都會推薦康威,不過,P根與P青此趟行程目標是到北威爾斯線,位於安格爾西島上最末站的神聖頭(霍利黑德),如果回程有時間、體力,再到康威走走。
From Sheffield to Holyhead, two transfers were needed. It would take 4 hours and 20 mins. The total journey was not short. Please notice not to take the train to Landudno if you want to go to any stop between Conwy Holyhead and vice versa.
Sheffield to Manchester Piccadilly 09:11-10:03 Manchester Piccadilly to Chester 10:16-11:22 Chester to Holyhead 11:35-13:30 11:50 Flint 12:04 Prestatyn 12:10 Rhyl 12:20 Colwyn Bay 12:27 Llandudno Junction 12:30 Conwy 12:36 Penmaenmawr 12:40 Llanfairfechan 12:48 Bangor (Gwynedd) 12:54 Llanfairpwll 13:04 Bodorgan 13:09 Ty Croes 13:12 Rhosneigr 13:17 Valley
雪菲爾到曼徹斯特皮卡第里 09:11-10:03 曼徹斯特皮卡第里到契斯特 10:16-11:22 契斯特到神聖頭(霍利黑德) 11:35-13:30 11:50 Flint 12:04 Prestatyn 12:10 Rhyl 12:20 Colwyn Bay 12:27 Llandudno Junction 12:30 Conwy 康威 12:36 Penmaenmawr 12:40 Llanfairfechan 12:48 Bangor (Gwynedd) 12:54 Llanfairpwll「蘭韋爾普爾古因吉爾戈格裡惠爾恩德羅布爾蘭蒂西利奧戈戈戈赫」車站 13:04 Bodorgan 13:09 Ty Croes 13:12 Rhosneigr 13:17 ValleyThey were astonished at the desolation of Holyhead when they arrived at Holyhead. It looked like a place abandoned for a while. As usual, Pigen and Piching felt hungry. The first issue was to solve the need of eating. They picked up a bar restaurant and ordered a big share fried food with two beers. The hot food tasted delicious with beers. They couldn't stop eating it. 到達神聖頭(霍利黑德)時,對於眼前荒涼的景象有點錯愕,感覺好像是個已荒廢一陣子的地方,兩豬老樣子的開始飢腸轆轆起來,先解決吃的需求再說吧!隨意選家酒吧餐廳,點了一客香噴噴、熱騰騰的共享油炸物餐來吃,配上啤酒,真的一口接著一口、欲罷不能。
After the well-fed meal, they went to the city centre and found there were not much people there. Some stores didn't have customers and some even closed. They kept walking and suddenly a beautiful building made of stone appeared in front of them. Aha, it was Church of St Cybi! It was originally a Roman Fort and used to defend the Island from marauding pirates in the Irish Sea. Touching those stones and looking at the texture, Piching's mood was beyond description. 飽餐一頓後,往市中心方向走去,同樣的人煙稀少,店家似乎也沒什買氣,有些甚至久未營業,走著、走著、恣意穿梭於巷弄間,前方突然出現具有漂亮肌理的石頭 建築,啊哈~原來是聖錫比教堂,原本是羅馬人的要塞,用來防禦愛爾蘭海的海盜。觸摸著這些岩塊,看著歲月的肌理,內心真有種說不出的感動。
1-The outer harbour Holyhead 神聖頭(霍利黑德)外海港 2-The Captain Skinner memorial 剝皮上尉紀念碑 3-Holyhead Rail Station 神聖頭(霍利黑德)火車站 4-Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch Rail Station 「蘭韋爾普爾古因吉爾戈格裡惠爾恩德羅布爾蘭蒂西利奧戈戈戈赫」車站,全英站名最長的車站,深受旅客喜愛。 5-Chester Backpackers契斯特背包客旅社 The overcast sky brought the harbour Holyhead gloomier. Pigen and Piching didn't stay long and decided to advance the time to go to Chester for check-in. 陰灰的天氣帶給神聖頭(霍利黑德)海港更陰鬱的感覺,兩豬沒有多做停留便逛回車站,打算提前到契斯特入駐旅舍休息去。
On the return train to Chester, they passed by Conwy. Conwy Castle was on the side of Conwy Station. The walls were very impressive. Also, it was interesting to see such many tourists ascending on the castle. However, Pigen and Piching were not off the train because Pigen was in a dead sleep. The cold got in Scotland let him more tired. Hope them have a nice rest in Chester. 回程列車行駛而過康威時,康威碉堡就在車站旁,可見其壯觀的城牆及登高遠眺的旅客們,感覺滿有趣的!不過,P根與P青並沒有下車,因為此刻的P根已在火車上睡著,從蘇格蘭帶回來的感冒讓他顯的更加疲累,還是趕快到契斯特的旅舍休息吧!
Finally, it was the last day in Scotland. On the way back to Sheffield, Pigen and Piching had a short stop in Aberdeen. Their friend, Tiffany who studied in Aberdeen said that Aberdeen was a small place so they often went to Edinburgh. However, the truth is Aberdeen was not small and it was the third largest city in Scotland. 終於到了蘇格蘭行的最後一天,趁著回雪菲爾行程上,在蘇格蘭東岸的亞伯丁短暫停留,之前聽在這裡唸書的蒂凡妮說亞伯丁是個很小的地方,所以他們常跑去愛丁堡。但事實上亞伯丁一點都不小,少說也是蘇格蘭第三大城。
When pigen and Piching left the rail station, they was attracted to Aberdeen's architecture. The cloudy sky brought to Aberdeen another still beauty of grey. 當P根與P青出了車站後,馬上被亞伯丁的建築所吸引,陰陰的天氣,帶給亞伯丁另一種灰色的沈寂之美。
Originally, Piching planned to visit Dundee where was mentioned by broadcast very often after they left Aberdeen. Nevertheless both of them felt tired and wanted to home as soon as possible so they gave up the chance to visit Dundee. 原本打算離開亞伯丁後,在廣播常提到的鄧迪下車走走看看,不過兩豬過於疲累、歸心似箭而作罷。
When Pigen and Piching Waited for the train to Wick, there's nobody but a stationmaster in the rail station. Time passed by, the stationmaster suddenly came to announce that there's no train on that day. The reason was caused by an accident. The train departed from Inverness and hit a car. Luckily, there's no one hurt and die. (However, the truth was the car driver suffered a broken wrist and suspected broken leg, but was conscious as he was removed from the vehicle.) This news quite surprised Piching. She had no idea how to deal with this situation. Would they return to Inverness? Many questions appeared in her mind. 等待往威克的列車時,火車站裡除了站長以外,毫無其它人影,時間快接近時,突然站長過來告知這天火車停駛,原因是從茵凡尼斯出發的列車與汽車相撞,所幸無人傷亡(不過事後看新聞,汽車駕駛手腕斷裂及疑似大腿斷裂,不過仍然意識清醒)。這個消息令P青訝異不已,心想該怎麼辦才好?今天回的去茵凡尼斯嗎?
Before she thought too much, the station master told her they had arranged taxis to drive them to Wick. All passengers didn't need to pay extra money if they had train tickets. Soon after, a couple came to join the short trip to Wick. The lady was expansive so she sat next to the driver. Thus, there was no awkward conversation happened in the taxi. 幸好,站長馬上說她會安排計程車載送我們到威克,乘客無需負擔任何費用。稍後來了一對夫妻,也是要去威克的,所以剛好一輛計程車便可以把全部旅客載送到目的地。太太是個很健談的人,所以坐在駕駛座旁與駕駛聊天,避免整車冷場。
Even the taxi departed much later than the scheduled time but it arrived at Wick on time. Thurso to Wick 14:27-14:57 via taxi
They only had less than one hour to stay in Wick because they had to catch up the train on 3:52pm. Thus, they walked along the River Wick to the Wick Bay and were disappointed about the view comparing with Thurso's. Wick was divided by the River Wick. Its population is less than Thurso's. There's Wick Airport in the north providing transport for the rather isolated Caithness community. Wick has world's shortest street, Ebenezer Place recorded in Guinness Book of Records. It only two meters long. 因為等回兒要趕搭三點五十二分的火車,所以P根與P青只能在這裡逗留不到一個小時。威克被威克河分成兩邊,人口比樂索少一點點,其北邊有威克機場,提供通往開斯納斯郡更偏遠孤立的區域。由於時間倉促,所以P根與P青趕緊先沿著威克河走到港口,不過景色與樂索相比,的確失色,這裡還有創下金氏記錄-世界最短的街道Ebenezer Place,只有兩米長。
North Highland Lines still stopped because of investigation, the train station arranged a mini-bus to pick up passengers along the lines. The mini-bus took less time than the train's scheduled time so passengers could walked around to see the different view from the train lines' if they arrived at the stop early. After Pigen and Piching arrived at the final destination, Inverness, the driver had to drive back to Wick alone. Luckily, direct driving without stop only took him two hours from Inverness to Wick. It was very soon!!!
Piching was excited to reach to the northernmost town on the British mainland, Thurso. It took almost 4 hours from Inverness. Piching expected to see something different. Similar to West Highland lines, there is only two runs of train in North Highland line on Sunday and are three runs in the other days. There was not much passenger on that day so Pigen and Piching could sit anywhere they like. Along the rail line, the landscape changed from the lake, the green land, the ocean to wizened highland. Piching's mind returned to three years ago when she went to Las Vegas and the Grand canyon with her parents. 終於要踏上本島鐵路能到達的最北邊的樂索小鎮(通常John o' Groats普遍被認為是最北邊的村莊,所以才有Land's End to John o' Groats的諺語,意指旅行橫跨英國最北及最南,然而最北既非John o' Groats,最南也不是Land's End,反而是Duncansby Head比John o' Groats更北,而Land's End確實是位於最西南端,卻不是最西邊或最南邊),從茵凡尼斯出發,搭乘火車約四小時。滿心期待會看到點不一樣的景致。班次同西高地路線一樣不多,非週日三班、週日兩班,這天搭乘的旅客並不多,所以位置隨P根與P青坐。沿線風景從湖泊、綠地、海洋變化到乾枯的高地,P青此刻心情彷彿回到05年與爸媽去拉斯維加斯及大峽谷的心情。
It was a long journey so sometimes they took pictures. They didn't sleep well last night so they took turns to take a nap. Some interesting stops caught Piching's eye and she would try her best to shot for record. When the train stopped at Georgemass Junction, most of passengers were off the train to breathe the fresh air and got on the train as it was going to depart. 因為車程很久,前晚也沒睡好,所以除了偶爾拍拍照打發時間外,兩豬輪流補眠以備到達後有充足的體力逛。沿線有些有趣的車站,讓疲倦的P青眼睛為之一亮。大部分旅客到Georgemass Junction都會下車活動筋骨,發車時再上來。
Speaking of walking through a bridge beyond the River Thurso in a park, a passing old Scottish pointed to Tesco's carrier bag in the riverside and told to Pigen and Piching that it's the way Scottish deal with the refuse. Piching had nothing to say in reply but laughed. It was common in the United Kingdom especially Tesco's bag littered about even in this small town. That means Tesco is everywhere!!! 話說經過公園穿越樂索河上的某座小橋時,一個經過的蘇格蘭老先生指著河流邊的特易購塑膠袋對兩豬說,這就是蘇格蘭人處理垃圾的方法。P青無言以對,只能笑笑,終究這樣的情況在英國是屢見不鮮了,特別是特易購的塑膠袋到處都有,連這小鎮都有,可見其超市普及的程度。
Walking from the rail station, Pigen and Piching turned right to the Lovers Lane and found the River Thurso which flows into Thurso Bay and the Pentland Firth. From the bay or beach, you could see Hoy of the Orkney islands and the famous towering Old Man of Hoy. All kinds of ferry information could be found in the station's bulletin board. Walking to the east north direction, you could see Thurso Castle nearby the sea. On the contrary, walking to west north direction, you could find different sea shore from the east north's. 從車站走出來,往右手邊的情人巷直走,便會看到樂索河,通往樂索灣與彭特蘭灣(有人說彭特蘭灣比較接近海峽性質),從港口或海邊可以看見奧克尼群島的Hoy及高聳有名的Old Man of Hoy。從彭特蘭灣西邊的Scrabster可搭MV Hamnavoe渡輪到奧克尼群島的Stomness,可在樂索車站佈告欄看各種渡輪旅遊資訊。在東北方向的海邊,可看見樂索城堡;而往西北邊Scrabster方向走,可看見與東北方不太一樣的海岸景觀。
"Happily" is the only feeling for them to come to Thurso with a population of more than 8000 only. Walking on the street, you would find it's difficult for residents not to meet an acquaintance. 對於樂索的感覺是「幸好有來」,雖然只是一個人口八千多人的小鎮,走在街上,居民們很難不遇見熟識的人而打招呼、閒聊著。 Since they are in Thurso, why not go to the last stop, Wick and take train returning to Inverness. 既然都來到樂索了,不如就到鐵路最後一站-威克看看,再從威克搭火車直接回茵凡尼斯。
It became cloudy once they arrived in Inverness. After their check-in, they were eager to find food and found a bar nearby the castle. It looked like it can serve delicious meals for them. However, all seats are occupied and it was too popular to order a meal. They gave up and walked toward to McDonald's.
這天到達茵凡尼斯,天氣開始變的陰陰的,兩豬入駐旅社後,便飢腸轆轆的到外面搜尋食物,在城堡邊找了一家看起來似乎很美味的酒吧餐廳打算犒賞自己一番,沒想到一進門,卻座無虛席,連點菜的機會都沒有,只好作罷,轉往麥當勞前進。 左上圖1-2 為茵凡尼斯火車站 Inverness Rail Station 左中圖3 為茵凡尼斯堡,為於尼斯河旁的峭壁上 Inverness Castle, sitting on a cliff overlooking the River Ness 左下圖4 為從茵凡尼斯堡的山丘上往下看的街景 View from Inverness Castle 左下圖5 只是個指示牌 上圖 為從茵凡尼斯堡的山丘上往下尼斯河方向看的景色 View from Inverness Castle 下右圖 與威廉堡相接的大峽谷路線終點或起點解說牌(Great Glen Ways where it all ends or begins) 下中圖 醫務人行橋Infirmary Footbridge 下左圖 醫務人行橋Infirmary Footbridge,連結尼斯島 bridging to the Ness Islands
In the very early morning, Pigen and Piching enjoyed their rich Scottish breakfast. After they finished it, they walked around and decided to walk on the Skye Bridge to Kyle because the cosy hostel made them feel good. 一大早起床享用完豐盛早餐後,兩豬便到附近逛逛,舒適的旅館讓兩人的疲憊恢復的差不多,於是決定走過天空橋到對岸的開耳去。 1-Saucy Mary's Lodge外觀 2-Saucy Mary's Lodge餐廳內部 3-Kyleakin harbour沿著旅館外的道路走不遠,便可遠遠看見Castle Moil(Caisteal Maol)。 4-Bench facing the Loch Alsh 可坐在長凳或綠地上欣賞眼前美景 5-View from the Skye Bridge 走在天空橋上看見的奇怪路 6-View from the Skye Bridge 從天空橋往Kyleakin方向看的風景 7-View from the Skye Bridge 從天空橋往另一方向看的風景 8-Welcome sign to Kyle of Lochalsh 歡迎蒞臨開耳的公路指示牌 9-Kyle of Lochalsh Rail Station 莫名其妙就走到火車站了 10-Kyle of Lochalsh Rail Station 開耳火車站
Pigen and Piching bought a big bread and had a rest in the train station. They were waiting for the ScotRail to the North Highland. It would take 2.5 hours to Inverness. 在開耳買些簡單麵包,便休息等火車抵達,迎接我們的是開往北高地的列車,到達茵凡尼斯所需時間為2.5小時。 Kyle of Lochalsh to Inverness 11:59-14:29 12:09 Duirinish 12:13 Plockton 12:16 Duncraig 12:25 Stromeferry 12:36 Attadale 12:42 Strathcarron 12:50 Achnashellach 13:09 Achnasheen 13:19 Achanalt 13:25 Lochluichart 13:36 Garve 13:58 Dingwall 14:07 Muir of Ord 14:13 Beauly 不知是否非旅遊旺季,搭乘這班火車的旅客並不多,與西高地路線上滿滿的乘客相比,形成很大的對比。